The sugar shell cracks before the fruit turns tart
Traditional bingtanghulu skewers hawthorn, dips it in hot sugar syrup and lets the coating set into a clear or amber shell. First comes the crack of sugar, then the tartness of the fruit. Strawberries, grapes, citrus and filled versions are common now, but hawthorn still carries the strongest Beijing winter-street association.
The sugar shell slowly absorbs moisture in warmth. Eat it soon after buying for the best crunch.
Look for a dry, separate coating rather than melted or sticky sugar. Once the shell absorbs moisture, the clean crack disappears. Eat it soon after buying, and keep a tissue handy in warm weather.
Eating note
The sugar content is high and hawthorn is tart. Share a skewer if you limit sugar, have sensitive teeth or experience acid reflux. With children, watch the hard shell, hawthorn pits and pointed bamboo stick.
